By
Chris Scott
After my high school graduation,
I saved money for college by working the following summer
as a deckhand on a commercial fishing boat. It was a tough
job with long hours, isolation, and a whole lot of dead
fish imparting their odour on you after a few days in their
company and, when the weather turned nasty, the job was
downright dangerous.
There were stretches of water that had
earned bad reputations, as if some malignant spirit had
taken up residence in them and sought to entertain itself
by sinking boats. Brooks Bay was one of these spots, often
blowing gales while only five kilometres away the weather
would be calm and sunny. One day there it blew so hard that
the skipper had to put the engine in reverse to slow us
down enough for the fish to be able to catch our hooks.
In my experience, though, nothing compares
to Hecate Strait. Even the name hints at the fury to be
found here. This stretch of water in western Canada, between
the Queen Charlotte Islands and the northern coast of British
Columbia (B.C.), boasts all three factors that make vicious
storms: shallow water, strong tides and high winds. Many
a seafarer has lost his life there, and, at the age of 19,
it almost claimed mine.
We had headed there on rumours of fish
aplenty off the top end of the Queen Charlotte Islands.
The rumours turned out to be bogus, but we managed to bring
in one decent catch and took it to an island village called
Massett. There we had a night on the town that ended up
with me almost being arrested for beating up a girl I had
never even seen before. With that behind us, we headed across
the Hecate Strait towards the mainland.
The ocean was glassy-calm that day making
the weather reports of an approaching southeasterly gale
hard to believe. But my skipper, Bill, was in no mood to
waste time getting across the open water.
Our other boat, The Resilience, on the
other hand, had lagged behind and the crew suddenly found
themselves battling a storm while we motored along under
sunny skies. The skipper, Mike, radioed us saying that he’d
broken a pole so we wheeled back around to help.
We ran straight into the teeth of the
worst storm I’d ever seen. It was blowing about 60
knots, which isn’t much considering 100 knot winds
were known to blow there, but those winds, combined with
the shallow water near Rose Spit and a tide moving against
the wind, caused the waves to stack up to mountainous heights.
In a half-hour things went from fine to
bad and then from bad to worse. Like a nightmare unfolding
in slow motion, each passing minute erased the memory of
all that existed before, leaving me with nothing but the
present: the deafening roar of the water and the wind screaming
through the rigging.
The clouds and driving rain brought an
early night adding zero visibility to the equation. We didn’t
see the half-submerged wreckage of a nearby boat, but our
portside stabilizer found it and snagged it breaking the
chain. With the stabilizer on our windward side gone, the
starboard stabilizer dove for the bottom of Hecate Strait.
This keeled the boat onto its side, submerging the starboard
pole and ripping it off.
Then we were in real trouble.
With the pole and rigging dragging in
the water, we ran the risk of wrapping a cable around the
propeller and stalling the engine. Without power we would
have no steering, and without steering it would be only
a matter of time before the boat breached and rolled. In
the water, assuming we had time to put on our survival suits
and get free of the wreck, no one would see us until our
bloated corpses washed up in Alaska days later.
When you find yourself at the whim of
nature’s vicious chaos, what settles into your soul
is not fear. It’s not sorrow for all the things you
haven’t done, and may never do. It’s numbness
-- disbelief -- as your mind backs away from the lethal
reality you find yourself in. And those few short hours
that passed since you last saw the sun seem like a lifetime.
With the downed pole and the cables secured
as best we could, we crawled back towards the safety of
Rose Spit. Without the stabilizers, the boat was pushed
so far over by the storm I had to stand on the cupboard
doors to keep upright. Each wave we crested would push us
a little further over than seemed possible, and then there
was a sickening drop into the trough, and the slow rise
up.
We spent three hours like that. Three
hours of being half submerged. Three hours of watching the
water reach for the wheelhouse door. Three hours of waiting
for the engine to stall or that one fateful wave big enough
to flip us.
Eventually, with disbelief, I realized
the swells were getting smaller instead of bigger as we
crossed into the lee of the spit. We’d stepped out
of hell back into the land of the living.
After we dropped anchor I stepped out
on deck to survey the damage. Through the blackness and
rain I took a long loving look at the beach and the trees
less than a hundred meters away and saw something I would
never have thought possible: driven by the howling wind,
the waves were breaking away from the beach. |